Our Take

Whenever Urwerk adds a new timepiece to the collection, it’s always extremely exciting. With this last year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week, the duo of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei elevated the UR-200 family to another level with the arrival of the UR-230 “Eagle”. This timepiece added something new to the collection with its design and mechanics. With signature satellite display, wandering hours and retrograde minutes hand, there’s been an engine upgrade and a high-tech makeover. Back with another edition of this ultra-modern timepiece, Urwerk unveils the new UR-230 “Polaris.”

This is a departure from Urwerk’s norms – the first white case from the brand. Carved from a single block of proprietary fiberglass-enhanced ceramic, we see that Felix and Martin are no longer confined to the realm of dark and mute colorways. The UR-230 “Polaris” is a polar perspective on Urwerk’s aesthetics. The novelty of this material is far more than its color. This is a ceramic with much stronger properties to prevent shattering. One of the common points of anxiety with ceramic watches is that one hit against a doorknob and the timepiece will be in (many) pieces, either case or bracelet. Here, the UR-230 Polaris utilizes a polymer base with sheets of woven ceramic throughout, intertwined with fiberglass plies. Used in the airspace, medical and now watchmaking industries, this is a ceramic timepiece that won’t break. A closer look will also show off some of the nuances of the material – the fiberglass is actually a very light gray. This provides texture and a slight shimmer when the watch moves through light. Overall, it’s a highly functional, aesthetically pleasing foray into material science.

From a watchmaking perspective, Urwerk’s signature turbines have been improved upon through innovative shock absorbers designed to protect the all-new, in-house UR-7.30 caliber. A first set of turbines is dedicated to attenuating the impact of any external shock, thereby guaranteeing the robustness and durability of the watch. A second set controls the flow of air that feeds the winding system. The strength of this "air brake," designed to modulate the winding power according to the wearer's level of activity, is set by a rotating knob on the back of the watch. From a technical standpoint, this is a huge step forward in the complexity and robustness of Urwerk’s signature turbine rotors.

Another Urwerk signature element, the UR-230 “Polaris” features a cover that provides protection for the large sapphire crystal covering the wandering-hour mechanism. It may seem like a simple addition on the surface, but it was no small engineering feat considering the cover’s braking system that denies the possibility of slamming into the sapphire crystal.

Within the UR-200 family, the UR-230 “Polaris” is an evolutionary step that broadens the scope of the brand’s design and technical feats. Sure to be a hit amongst collectors, this UR-230 is limited to 35 pieces.

The Details

The UR-230 Polaris Limited edition of 35 timepieces

Movement

Caliber: UR-7.30 developed by URWERK
Winding: Automatic winding mechanism with manual winding option
Escapement: Swiss anchor escapement
Frequency: 28,800 vph- 4 Hz
Hairspring: Flat
Jewels: 50
Energy: double barrel system
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Material: Baseplate in ARCAP P40; 3D minute hand in aluminum with counterweight; Central spring in steel; Hour transporters in aluminum; Central carousel and screws in Grade 5 titanium.

Finishes: Hour markers hand-painted with SuperLumiNova ©; 3D-engraved structure with circular finish; Micro-bead blasted sub-dials; Sandblasted with circular satin finish and black rhodium coating carousel; Sandblasted with DLC coating cam; Black anodized and finely sandblasted 3D minute hand; Red anodized counterweight; Polished screws.

Hand-painted components with SuperLuminova © (White (blue glow): Hour transporter and markers, automatic winding indicator; red (green glow): 60-minute marker and "Off" position for automatic winding.

Indications: Wandering hours on a revolving satellite complication (URWERK patented); 3D retrograde minute hand; Air brake system for winding regulation; Automatic winding on/off indicator.

Case

Material: Exclusive white ceramic developed in collaboration with URWERK
Dimensions: Width: 44,81 mm; Length: 53,55 mm; Thickness: 18,38 mm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Case Back: Black DLC-treated titanium with sapphire crystal
Water resistance: Tested to 30 meters (3 ATM)