Our Take

More than ten years ago, Chopard Group launched Ferdinand Berthoud – a high-end, no-expense-spared watchmaking venture. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Caroline Scheufele (brother and sister) behind Chopard wanted to pay tribute to one of the fathers of marine chronometry from the 18th century – Berthoud. With three models in the current catalog and very limited production, they’re extremely unusual to see at gatherings. That’s why we’re thrilled to present one of the brand’s latest releases from 2022 – this is the ultra-rare Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1.

While laser-focused on one of the brand’s core themes, chronometric excellence, the “FB3” approaches their mission through a slightly different path. The atelier’s first “time-only” watch, we find a level of technical sophistication that far surpasses the label. This is also Ferdinand Berthoud’s most ergonomic timepiece at an ultra-wearable 42mm in diameter and 9mm in thickness. The timepiece features the only cylindrical balance spring with chronometer certification from COSC, a process that required years to fully research, develop, and perfect the movement regulation before meeting COSC standards. Appearing at 9 o’clock alongside the pallet-lever and escapement wheel, the cylindrical balance spring is extremely challenging to manufacture and requires significantly more space than a traditional flat balance spring. These balance springs offer a chronometric advantage because they beat concentrically and perfectly on axis – this means less error over time.

Beyond the cylindrical balance spring, the dial is a sight to behold. The large barrel for the 72-hour power reserve is held in place by a beautiful arched bridge at 12 o’clock. A power reserve indicator appears at 2 o’clock, while a seconds subdial sits front and center at 6 o’clock. The peripheral minute track is easily legible and well designed to avoid blocking the beauty of the timepiece’s skeletonization.

While the balance spring takes center stage, the craftsmanship of the movement delivers on all expectations for a timepiece with a sky-high price point. Boasting all of the hallmarks of a fine-finished timepiece – an array of polishing techniques, beveled edges, shiny and matte textures – the composition of bridges on both the dial and caseback sides of the caliber are impressive. Six bridges on the dial, ten bridges through the caseback, the movement creates a stunning mosaic effect. True to Ferdinand Berthoud’s original intention, the FB3 spares no expense to craft a time-only watch that exists in rarefied air in modern watchmaking.

With a rough production capacity of 25 timepieces per year, few are ever seen on the market or “in the wild.”

The Details

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1

Case

• Material: Case in ethical 18-carat white gold
• Case Type: Round with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
• Diameter: 42.30 mm
• Thickness: 9.43 mm
• Water resistance : 30 m
• Glass: Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
• Case-back: Exhibition back in ethical 18-carat white gold fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane
• Crown type: Ethical 18-carat white gold

Movement

• Calibre: FB-SPC
• Type Of Movement: Mechanical with cylindrical balance-spring
• Type Of Winding: Hand-wound
• Diameter: 34 mm
• Тhickness: 6.84 mm
• Lines: 15'''
• Number of jewels: 47
• Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
• Power reserve: 72 hours
• Number of components: 230
• Certification: Chronometer-certified by the COSC

Dials and Hands

• Dial: Sandblasted nickel silver and 2N gilded
• Eggshell-coloured inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes and seconds subdial, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Facetted and skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
• Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatement
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatement

Functions and Display

• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Seconds at 6 o’clock
• Power reserve at 2'o'clock

Strap and Buckle

• Strap: Alligator leather
• Buckle: 18-carat white gold pin buckle