We’re continuing our series on fantastic modern movements in independent watchmaking with a focus on Moritz Grossmann’s Caliber 106.0, found in the brand’s HAMATIC timepiece.
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We’re digging into what we view as a significant shift in the industry by looking at what Louis Vuitton watchmaking is doing with indies, why it’s happening now, and what it may mean for the future of indies.
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We’ve talked in-depth about some of the more iconic creations from this era in independent watchmaking – timepieces like Urwerk’s UR-103, and Akrivia’s AK-06. It’s now time to turn our attention to the beating heart of the tradition – movements.
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We like to do a temperature check on the state of the watch market at the beginning and around the halfway point of every year. Especially due to the opaque and slow nature of the watch industry, that six-month cadence allows for some shifts to be more easily observed.
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One of our favorite modern independent watch brands, MB&F has come a long way from its earliest days. The Horological Machine 1, released in 2006, confused and bewildered collectors and retailers. The Horological Machine 11 Architect from last month’s Dubai Watch Week (Nov. 2023), well the watch community was mesmerized and demand is huge. Avant-garde watchmaking has become something much bigger than an ultra-small niche for a handful of sci-fi enthusiasts.
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Another year comes to a close with no shortage of incredible timepieces launched from our favorite brands. To end 2023, we spoke with some friends and members of the watch-collecting community to share their candidates for Watch of the Year. Enjoy!
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MB&F is one of the main actors to propel modern independent watchmaking to its current heights. Even after nearly two decades of operating, Max Büsser and friends seem to be building only more and more momentum with every new creation.
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As the festive season approaches, the quest for the perfect gift begins. For those who love all things horological, we’ve prepared a holiday gift guide for watch collectors and enthusiasts.
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We've got YouTube coverage of Dubai Watch Week with all of our favorite brands!
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Dubai Watch Week is one of our favorite watch industry events. Organized by renowned retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Watch Week continues to raise the bar since its debut in 2015. This year, the turnout was massive for independent watchmakers, brands, and collectors. Many of our friends and partners from North America and Europe attended.
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For collectors and enthusiasts of independent watchmaking, the arrival of a new Horological Machine from MB&F is always an event. These timepieces have set the tone for avant-garde watchmaking in the 21st century – madly creative and technically complex. Released to kickoff Dubai Watch Week 2023, this is the brand new Horological Machine No. 11 Architect.
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With everything from polishing screws to striping on movements to altering the texture of metals, there’s a huge range in style and quality in high-end watchmaking. For example, movement striping can be found on watches of all prices, but when done right, like the Côtes de Genève on Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, well things elevate to the realm of art. Details matter in watchmaking.
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Any discussion of great watchmakers in the 21st century will surely mention Kari Voutilainen. Today, we’re continuing our series on the icons of modern independent watchmaking.
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In 2019, we celebrated Urwerk’s launch of the UR-100— the brand’s smallest and slimmest watch to date. The model by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei was an instant home run, and so are all the other iterations of the watch from the Blue Planet to the “C3PO” to the UR-100V Ultraviolet to the Time and Culture I. This is one of the most dynamic, exceptional canvas for the mastermind duo’s most creative ideas. Now, Felix and Martin have returned with another edition – the Time and Culture II.
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A publication on our radar for review is The Art of Watchmaking, a history of De Bethune, written by Arthur Touchot with foreword by Wei Koh. An Assouline book, it meets the exacting standards of the luxury publishing house.
Without revealing too many spoilers, we’re taking a look at some of the aspects that we enjoyed in The Art of Watchmaking. It’s simply a great resource for anyone interested in diving deeper into De Bethune.
Every year, the GPHG Awards celebrates excellence and creativity in the watchmaking industry. Brands submit timepieces for awards in different categories, and an academy of industry players vote, first on finalists, and then for winners. With this year’s edition occurring after auction season on November 9, 2023, votes were tallied and finalists announced this week. There are six finalists in each of the fifteen categories spanning everything from Men’s to Ladies’ to Complication and more.
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Things are constantly evolving and mutating at Urwerk. The UR-120, released last year, brought the brand’s hallmark satellite wandering indication of time to its next level.
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We had the opportunity to engage in a thoughtful conversation with key industry leaders at this year's Geneva Watch Days 2023, discussing upcoming releases and the current state of independent watchmaking.
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When Only Watch 2023 released its preview catalog for the upcoming auction in November, there were a few notable brands with info on their watches still to come. One of these was the H. Moser x MB&F collaboration, known only by title – the Streamliner Pandamonium.
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There’s always excitement in the watch community whenever Rexhep Rexhepi releases a new timepiece. The young maestro is one of the industry’s brightest stars, ushering in a new era of traditional watchmaking at his atelier in the heart of Geneva.
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