Watch of the year candidates
Another year comes to a close with no shortage of incredible timepieces launched from our favorite brands. To end 2023, we spoke with some friends and members of the watch-collecting community to share their candidates for Watch of the Year. Enjoy!
@SFwatchDude: Collector of exceptional contemporary and independent timepieces.
F.P Journe FFC
“The Winner? I love to see brands pushing the boundaries and continuing to innovate. Not just producing the same watch with a new color dial or different metal each year. The FFC is unique, unconventional yet still wearable and consistent with the journe aesthetic and emotion.”
Omar Traboulsi: Revolution Middle East Correspondent, watch collector and fashion enthusiast. @thewrongwrist
MB&F HM11 Architect
“It’s very hard to choose the watch of the year in the presence of the RRCA from Rexhep Rechepi, the Chronometre Artisan from Simon Brette, the DBD Ever Green, the Urwerk UR 230, the minute Inerte from Xhedev… to name just a few of my favorites! However there is one watch that has haunted me ever since I saw the prototype and if that’s not a sign deserving to be considered the watch of the year I don’t know what is. I’m talking about the MB&F HM11 Architect. What I love about this new horological machine is that it marks a new journey in Max’s life, one that has moved away from his childhood and drawing inspiration from his current life.”
We did an in-depth review of this watch during its release, you can read more Per Esper.
Marko Koncina: Founder of Swiss Watch Gang Platform and host of Swiss Watch Gang YouTube Channel.
Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1
“It is hard not to be unbiased when asked what's the best watch that came out this year since I am wearing it on my wrist right as I write this. It is Felipe Pikullik’s Mondphase 1 from Berlin, Germany. I have been following Felipe´s journey for a few years now and I am very proud to be part of it. The Mondphase 1 is in my opinion, a watch where Felipe really showed us his will, passion, and style. No wonder the Mondphase 1 was nominated for the GPHG awards as well as the newly created Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. What intrigued me about this watch is the dial, as well as the movement side. The dial became very refined compared to his first watches. The minute and hour track is thin, features eastern-Arabic numerals, and is mirror-polished. The real treat for me is the exposed gears and 3D moon phase, which are all handmade, decorated, and assembled. It adds a bit of spice and flair to the monochrome dial. The moon phase is handmade, visible also from the back side, pushed to the maximum, almost touching the sapphire caseback. The bevelling also progressed a lot since he began making his watches, it's well rounded, even, and beautiful to look at. I think this is the best watch of the year because it's a serious step forward in the journey of a new, young, and ambitious watchmaker.”
@NYCWatchGuy: a New York-based collector and the biggest basketball fan in the world!
Patek Philippe 5316/50P
“Patek released the one watch to end your entire collecting journey with the Perpetual calendar tourbillon repeater along with a retrograde date with a lumen-like smoked sapphire crystal. And somehow they made this look sporty on a blue nylon strap. While it isn’t cheap, what is these days? I’m not sure if I’ll ever even get to see one of these in person but without a doubt, this was the best release of the year.”
Christopher Daaboul: Founder of EsperLuxe, collector and watch horophile.
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Anti-Magnetique
“While it’s not a production release, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Anti-Magnetique is spectacular. It’s like an old-school tool watch with the finish on steroids and what is the sexiest movement Rexhep has produced since the AK-06 caliber. The overall dial, case, and lugs design and execution is top notch and it's the winner for me this year.”
Verysmallpotatoes: cloud-based collector of fine contemporary and independent timepieces and lover of wine.
Patek 5316/50P
“I don't usually look at Patek as groundbreaking. Rather, a custodian of elite classical watchmaking. This clock is really quite special. At the confluence of old guard and new school with this reference, an absolute future classic, everything about an institution and its people embodied.”
J.D.R. @jardin_des_rois : Co- Founder of Alex Crown,, fashion enthusiast and collector of high horology
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA)
“Despite magnets being prolific in our world today, only a handful of brands have attempted a practical, anti-magnetic watch, and even fewer still have created one in an artisanal, dress watch form…until Rexhep Rexhepi’s RRCA. It features a brand-new manual-wind caliber, zero-reset function like the RRCC1 and RRCC2, champlevé enamel silver dial, stepped hands, and a 30-component stainless steel case crafted by Jean-Pierre Hagmann with a removable case back, that comes together along with the movement ring and dial plate to form a Faraday cage. For those who felt the RRCC1 and RRCC2 wear a little svelte, the RRCA has the same 38mm diameter but is 1.15mm thicker and has slightly longer lugs so it wears larger, and potentially better, in my opinion.”
Mike Ortolano: EsperLuxe Editor, watch collector, and Founder of The Open Caseback.
Horological Machine No. 11 Architect
I like it when a watch pulls heavily from non-watch inspiration - it puts watches in a dialogue with other things than watchmaking history. That's why the HM11 was such a striking watch for me in 2023. Pulling heavily from avant-garde architecture, it feels like it is both true to its inspiration and the brand's Horological Machine line. Very difficult balance to strike, very impressive end result.
Mike Shanlikian: Midwest-based collector of artisanal and contemporary horology.
Rolex Day-Date Jigsaw Dial
My pick for the best watch of 2023 is the Rolex Day-Date Jigsaw Puzzle dial. The design is bold, light-hearted, and whimsical. The watch is fun and gives a positive vibe with Inspirational words for the day and emojis for the date. The dial is artistic and beautifully crafted with a multicolor jigsaw motif. Also, 10 rainbow baguette-cut sapphire indices which match the jigsaw. Also, typically, a jigsaw puzzle is symbolic of Autism Awareness, which my family and I are touched by.