Our Take

Known as the “Hammerhead,” the UR-202S Full Metal Jacket is a legendary Urwerk timepiece. The first creation from Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, co-founders of Urwerk, to have a fully integrated bracelet, this timepiece simply stands out. We were fortunate enough to handle this timepiece’s sibling, the polished steel version, and were blown away. Now we are back again with UR-202S in its AITiN form – an ultra-scratch resistant, matte-black finish made of aluminum, titanium, and nitride.

Beyond the iconic sci-fi aesthetics, specifically the brand’s revolving satellite complication as well as telescoping hands, it really is the bracelet that makes this timepiece exceptional in Urwerk’s oeuvre. Created in collaboration with Maspoli, a renowned metal bracelet manufacturer, they set out to create the Rolls Royce of metal bracelets for this project. Well, mission accomplished! Maspoli manufactured every component in house, as well as custom tools for the project. The end result is an ultra-refined bracelet – only 6 of the 22 links are identically sized. It fits as well on the wrist as it does to Urwerk’s overall look.

Housing Calibre UR 7.03, the world’s first movement with twin turbine regulation, these miniature air compressors are seen spinning through the sapphire windows and are coupled with the winding rotor. They act as shock absorbers and are controlled by a 3-position selector, which can reduce the winding rate or fully stop it, to protect from additional wear and tear when not needed. It’s another fabulous application of Martin and Felix’s interest in interactivity – you can convert this automatic watch to manual, or vice versa.

As Felix mentioned, “The 202 was the first URWERK to have our in-house created automatic turbine, the first to have telescopic hands, and the 202S was the first URWERK to come on a full metal bracelet. Nothing about the creation of this watch was easy and it tested our engineering like never before, but the result was worth it.” A major piece of history in the development of one of the watch industry’s most beloved brands.

The Details

Urwerk UR-202S ALTIN "The Hammerhead Full Metal Jacket

Case: Black AlTiN steel or steel and titanium.

Dimensions: 45.6mm x 43.5mm x 15mm; micro-sandblasted; satin finish; back in titanium.

Movement: Calibre UR 7.03; automatic winding with world’s first twin turbine regulation.

Functions: Patented revolving satellite complication with integral telescopic minutes hands; moon phase indicator; day/night indicator.

Dial: ARCAP P40. Carousel mirror-polished by a diamond cutter. SuperLumiNova treatment on hours and minutes markers.

Indications: Dial featuring: hours and minutes; moon-phase indication; day/ night indicator.