Our Take

One of Urwerk’s most beloved timepieces, the UR-100 is back with a new version for Geneva Watch Days 2023. We’ve had the pleasure of handling many UR-100’s, and this is arguably the biggest spectacle of them all – the UR-100V Stardust.

Here, Urwerk leverages diamonds to further the timepiece’s concept – this isn’t diamonds for the sake of the shine. "The entire universe is composed of stellar particles, making their presence inevitable in all the forms of matter that surround us. Whether in their raw or transformed state, from carbon to cut diamonds, from iron mineral to steel alloy, this stardust is omnipresent. It's crazy to think that we, as human beings, are also made of this celestial substance. So, the nickname Stardust, logically associated with the setting of this UR-100V, also extends to the watch itself and to its future owner”, says Martin Frei, Artistic Director and Co-Founder of Urwerk

Totally 1.90 carats, the UR-100V Stardust is set with 400 diamonds – all VVS1, Color D rated. The diamond-setting technique, called snow-setting, uses different sized stones to create a surface that is neither complete chaos nor uniformly structured. This layout fits the cosmic concept of the timepiece – the diamonds are a reflection of that fine balance between structure and chaos in the universe. Only the edges of the watch are left bare – everything from the crown to the minute scale are diamond-covered. Amazing about this timepiece is the softness of the diamond mosaic to the touch. It’s remarkably smooth and fluid, contrary to what the eye may believe.

As with other UR-100’s, this timepiece carries all the emblems of an Urwerk: the wandering-hour time indicator and another nod to life within the wider universe. As you notice, the blue hand on the satellite time indicator pokes through at 10 and 2 o’clock to reveal time’s most intimate companion: distance. At both locations on the dial, this timepiece’s owner can see the distance the earth has traveled on its rotation (555km) and the distance the earth has revolved around the sun (35,740km). For the contemplator of life and the stars, the UR-100V Stardust is a decidedly philosophical watch to reflect on our position in the cosmos.

The Details

Urwerk UR-100V Stardust

Diameter: 41mm × 49.7mm

Thickness: 14mm

Case: Case middle in steel, snow-set with 400 brilliant-cut diamonds (VVS1, Color D diamond), steel crown set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds, case-back in shot-blasted titanium and sapphire Dial Color: Violet

Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova

Water Resistance: 30 meters

Strap/Bracelet: Baltimore blue fabric strap; pin buckle in shotblasted steel, set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds

Caliber: Selfwinding UR 12.02 movement governed by a Windfänger airscrew

Functions: Satellite hours; minutes; rotational distance at the Equator in 20 minutes; orbital distance in 20 minutes

Power Reserve: 48 hours

Winding: Automatic, with Windfänger airscrew

Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz

Jewels: 40