Our Take

With master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, leading the manufacture, De Bethune has become one of the darlings amongst independent brands. Every year, there’s simply more and more to admire from the brand’s catalog of ultra-modern designs, technical innovations, and impeccable finishing. Excited to offer another hit, this is De Bethune’s DB28XP Steel Wheels.

Part of the brand’s commemoration for the DB28’s ten-year anniversary, we’ve witnessed many updated “XP” (stands for extra-plat, “extra-thin” in French) editions from the more recent DB28XP Kind of Blue as well as DB28XP Starry Sky. Here, the “Steel Wheels” is a part of the modernization efforts for the DB28.

Released last year, 2022, the DB28XP “Steel Wheels” is 43mm in diameter, 7.2mm in thickness, made out of Grade 5 titanium and mirror polished throughout. Retaining the iconic articulated lugs, every DB28 brings an elite level of snugness and comfort on the wrist. What makes the Steel Wheels such an exceptional timepiece is that it was the first openworked DB28 for the brand. In the De Bethune catalog, this is a rare opportunity to see the inner workings of the movement from the dial-side of the watch. From the two barrels to the regulating system to the brand’s hallmark “Star Trek” inspired central bridge, there’s such variety in textures, finishes, and shapes throughout. Skeletonized, blued titanium hands ensure that too much of the view isn’t lost through time-telling.

In-house caliber 2115v11 is ultra-thin, but sacrifices none of the power in this manual-wind movement. The double barrels maintain an impressive 6-day power reserve while the power reserve indicator is visible through the open caseback.

Something about the openworked dial pushes the Steel Wheels even further into an ultra-futuristic aesthetic – this is the ultimate space-age De Bethune. With production limited to only 25 timepieces, the DB28XP Steel Wheels is sure to be an ultra-rare sight in the wild.

The Details

DB28 XP Steel Wheels

Functions: Hours, Minutes

Dial:

• Polished titanium hours ring with polished blued titanium spherical hour-markers.
• Circular satin-brushed titanum minutes ring,
• Titanium Barrel bridge and triangular central bridge guards with sandblasted and polished chamfered contours,
• Polished titanium dial base and Microlight decoration

Hand:

• Polished blued titanium hands

Display:

• Blue-polished titanium hands with polished inserts.

Case: Polished grade 5 Titanium with "Microlight" case middle - diameter 43mm - Thickness 7.2mm

Attachments: Polished Grade 5 Titanium floating lugs, De Bethune Patent (2006)

Glass: Sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment. Crown at 12 O'Clock, setting in two positions.

Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining.

Movement: Mechanical Hand Wound

Power reserve: 6 days