Our Take

De Bethune is one of the most exciting, inventive brands in modern independent watchmaking. Led by Denis Flageollet, De Bethune has captivated collectors now for decades with avant-garde designs, innovative materials, and technical complexity. We’re thrilled to present one of De Bethune’s earlier timepieces – an original DB8 monopusher chronograph in white gold.

Early timepieces in the history of De Bethune are extremely fascinating. At the time of the brand’s launch in 2002, the original collection (DB1 through DB5) were fusion timepieces between past and future. While we can see a clear lineage to these timepieces even in De Bethune’s most recent releases, the original collection appears generally more traditional in aesthetic. The blued stainless steel hands and guilloché dial are reminiscent of classical watchmaking, but things vary significantly as we observe the case shape and lugs. The DB1, the first timepiece released for De Bethune, and this DB8 utilize the same movement – both were monopusher chronographs. The significant difference between the two earliest chronographs is that the DB8 features only one subdial at six o’clock. It is very easy to mislabel this a “time-only” watch with a small second subdial. Known as a “soccer timer,” the six o’clock subdial features a 45-minute counter for the chronograph (one half in a soccer match). A central chronograph seconds hand moves front and centered when the complication is activated. Extremely legible, it’s a wonderfully designed and developed chronograph from De Bethune, back when it was close to one year old.

One of the more fascinating aspects of this timepiece is its movement. Some horology history here, Denis Flageollet, F.P. Journe, and Vianney Halter co-created a movement manufacturing business in the 1990s – Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Caliber 045MC, used for both the DB1 and DB8, comes from a borrowed architecture from their collective work at THA. That previous movement has become extremely collectible in recent years, housed in the 1990’s classic Cartier Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2396B. One exceptional quality of this movement is that it incorporates an additional swivel pin to ensure that the central second doesn’t lurch rapidly when the complication is activated. This is a monopusher chronograph with an ultra-smooth clutch.

There are very few original DB8’s in existence. Per the beautiful (and strongly recommended) “De Bethune: The Art of Watchmaking,” there are fewer than a handful of this timepiece in circulation. Thrilled to see this timepiece pass through our collection, this is a rare opportunity to own a foundational piece in De Bethune’s history.

The Details

De Bethune DB8

Functions

• Hours, minutes, seconds, Chronograph with column wheel

Display

• Hands: Hand-polished flamed blued steel.
• Dial: Gold silver or plain gold with center hand guilloché pattern, blue Arabic numerals and 45-minutes counter at 6 o’clock.

Case

White gold, diameter: 42mm-thickness: 8mm.

• Glass: Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating (1800 Vickers).
• Attachments: Ogival lugs
• Back: Solid in white gold.

Calibre

• Manual winding movement.
• 188 parts – “Côtes De Bethune” and hand polished parts– calibre De Bethune 2003, Swiss lever escapement, Single-button chronograph movement with column wheel, 45 minutes counter at 6 o’clock
• Jewelling: 21 jewels
• Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/hour
• Power Reserve: 36 hours

Strap

Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining