Our Take

One of the pioneers of modern independent watchmaking, De Bethune’s catalog is full of hits. Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker and polymath behind the brand, dives deep into every aspect of watchmaking through innovative mechanisms, designs, and materials. Especially complicated timepieces, there are few that do it to the same level of excellence. That’s why we’re thrilled to present an updated version of a De Bethune classic – the DB25 Perpetual Calendar.

Something like the watch industry’s version of remastering in music, this is the first return to the DB25 Perpetual Calendar since its original release in 2011. As De Bethune has grown significantly over the last decade, so too has this update. Showcased first at Geneva Watch Days 2022, this DB25 Perpetual Calendar features an all new in-house caliber, dial, and case size.

While De Bethune brings back the guilloché dial and dial layout, the watch's look has evolved with the addition of a two-tone dial – silver and blue. A combination of subdials, for moonphase, date, and leap year indicator, and apertures, for day and month, create an overall well-balanced and pleasing dial on the eye. Compared to the original’s 44mm case, the dial is far from difficult to read nor overly cluttered at this timepiece’s new 40mm diameter.

One of the major attractions of this new DB25 is the updated movement – caliber DB2324V2. Seen through the open caseback, the three-quarter plate is sandblasted and features one of the brand’s hallmark star motifs. Coupled with the blued titanium rotor and balance bridge, it’s a gorgeous automatic caliber with 423 components and 48 jewels. Common to De Bethune movements, this timepiece packs a double barrel for an impressive five-day power reserve.

Of course, none of this would be “De Bethune” without some of the brand’s defining horological innovations. There’s the patented triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system as well as the in-house blue silicon escape – both ensure chronometric performance in day-to-day life.

A serious update to one of De Bethune’s classics, this is one of the premiere perpetual calendar timepieces in the indie game.

The Details

DB25 Perpetual Calendar

Movement: DB2324V2

Type: Mechanical self-winding movement

Adjustment:

• Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
• Month, day of the week and spherical moon phase adjustment via correctors

Technical features of calibre DB2324V2

Number of Parts: 423

Jewelling: 48 Jewels

Diameter: 30mm

Power Reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Specificities:

• Titanium and white gold balance wheel De Bethune Innovation (2016)
• "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
• Silicon escape wheel
• Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
• Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
• Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and platinum
• Oscillating weight shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2006)

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Adornment: ¾ plate with starry decor, sandblasted and snailed by hand Balance bridge and oscillating weight arms in blued titanium White gold oscillating weight hand snailed Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Display

Display: Hands curved, in hand mirror-polished steel Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on anthracite discs with silver decal – sub dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month – leap year indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial:

• Bicolor silver and blue hand-guilloché, with 12 radiating sectors
• De Bethune star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars
• Curved hour, date and moon phase rings with silver relief Roman numerals

Case and Strap

Case Material: Grade 5 Titanium Case Diameter: 40mm Case Thickness: 11,3mm Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating. Case back: Open back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating Water Resistance: 3ATM Strap: Extra-Supple alligator leather, alligator lining Buckle: Pin Buckle in polished titanium